
Fashion, these days, is full
of contradictions.
Sneakers have become the brogues and pumps of the new
decade; casual Fridays have begun to permeate the rest of the
week; dot com slack is the rule, not the exception. Still, it
seems, in the sphere of women's clothing, casual wear
manufacturers just can't relax.
Perhaps it's the popularity of one-stop shopping, the
flourishing of mega-markets like WalMart, that has infected
the once-healthy practice of specialized buying and browsing.
It used to be you'd purchase your sweats at the Gap, and your
Saturday night best at the boutique most noted for its
eveningwear. Now the Gap carries beaded clutches and sexy
black frocks. The lines have been blurred. Lifestyle is
continuously moving forward. And casual wear manufacturers are
following suit.
"Lifestyle has evolved. We can now have one outfit that
works for all kinds of activities -- working, working out,
going out," says Michael Budman, co-founder of Canadian casual
wear icon Roots, ripe for expansion at almost 30 years old.
"It's all merging somewhere."
Where exactly is evident in Roots' new direction. To
compensate for this aformentioned evolution, and in an attempt
to cover off various lifestyles in a single ensemble, Budman
has "stretched" the company's focus. And quite literally. Once
renowned for its sporty leathers and slouchy sweats, Roots is
now also celebrated for its sleek shapes, fashion-forward
fabrics and feminine cuts. Slim skirts in rayon and spandex,
and slip dresses in nylon/spandex blends are the norm for
girls. Athletic begets urban. Informal begets chic.
Twenty-year-old Canadian travel clothier Tilley Endurables
is perhaps best known for the khaki "adventure cloth" hat that
spawned more than 1,000 locations worldwide. Yet one of its
biggest sellers today is its silk line for women, who, at the
end of the day, were left with nothing to wear to the dining
room, theatre or casino. After numerous requests from loyal
female customers, the outfit was compelled to seek out a new
microfibre from Japan (they call it their "Tilley silk") that
can pack as well as a pair of safari shorts, but gain entrance
into any ballroom. "It was a natural progression for us to
eventually tackle eveningwear," says Alison Tilley, vice
president of merchandise and marketing. "It's not always what
you do in the day when you travel, but at night as well." In
keeping with their vacation wear credo, Tilley's eveningwear
is sold by the motto, "elegance you can scrunch in the palm of
your hand."
There are several explanations for this movement of
traditionally casual clothiers into the realm of the formal,
or at least more elegant. Like Budman of Roots, Doris
Montanera, editor of the Canadian fashion trade magazine
Style, attributes the transition to a parallel shift in
lifestyle. "There's a big trend toward versatile clothes that
you can wear in the day and move into night." Then there's the
incessant flip-flopping of fashion, the current backlash
against a decade of dressing down, spearheaded by fashionistas
yearning for a change. And, of course, the mirroring of
today's economy -- art imitating life. "With the economy
looking up, manufacturers strive to catch more of the market
share by expanding," says Montanera.
"The economy right now seems very much like the economy of
the '80s. Consumers want to look rich, whether they really are
or not," says Michelle Zacks, senior fashion editor of
Sportswear International, the U.S. sportswear retail trade
publication. "Dressier looks help convey that image in a more
obvious way." Zacks points to urban streetwear labels like
Sean John, the new line from rap idol/industrialist Puff
Daddy, to illustrate the trend. "It's rife with fur, crystal
trimmings and luxe, luxe, luxe. Not what you'd usually expect
for that market." Rhinestones and sequins are back, fur de
rigueur, even jeans are dark, sleek and pristine for
downtowners striving to look uptown.
Partnered with that backlash against the natural, easy look
comes the lust for "ladylike" fashion. "After lots of
minimalism and uniform looks, consumers are happy to embrace
more glamorous, individual styles," says Zacks. Fendi, Hermes
and Manolo Blahnik, with their studded handbags and stilettos,
are leaders in the accessories of the day.
Execs and designers at Burberry's of London, one of the
world's most recognizable products -- recognized most for
their English climate-inspired rainwear considered dowdy by
vibrant youth -- have taken the last two years to reposition
their brand for a younger, glamour-crazed market. An ad
campaign presenting a lanky Kate Moss wearing a body-hugging
strapless number in the traditional Burberry plaid led off the
renaissance last season. "We've brushed off the image of an
older, conservative company and targeting a younger, hipper
individual," says Robert Vignola, executive vice president for
Burberry in North America. "Now that we've got a captive
audience with the brand, we'll grab the attention of the more
fluid, contemporary customer." He acknowledges the "Gen-X"
target marks the company's biggest growth potential and poses
an even bigger challenge, and adds that the latest campaign is
but a start.
"People are becoming more and more interested in, and
comfortable with, glamour and the ostentatious," says Zacks.
"And this trend is bound to continue on all levels of the
fashion spectrum, from junior's to young men's to high-end
designer."
Could that mean we'll soon be suiting up in black-tie and
maribou for the nephew's birthday party at Chuck-E-Cheeze?
You'd better buff up your stilettos, just in case.